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Turkey 2011. A trip without travel agencies
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Turkey 2011

Turkey 2011. A trip without travel agencies

This report contains information about holiday in Turkey in April 2011. Area: Antalya - Cappadocia ( Goreme ) - Antalya. Estimated budget of 500-600 euro per person with the flight. Prices of accommodation, tickets and others are given.

04/08/2011

We left Lviv by train "Lviv - Kharkiv".

09/04/2011

From the railway station called a taxi to the airport Juliany (~ 30 UAH, if you call taxi by the phone).

Since we were flying by Wizz Air, and had only one luggage for 4 persons, everything else - hand luggage, we worried whether we be allowed to take it on a plane, due to limitations in the dimensions of 55x40x20 and weight 10 kg. Our bags were bigger than the frame :), although there is a suspicion that these frames is smaller then 55x40x20. Also we have added all the tanks with colognes, shampoos, knives, etc. to our luggage. But there were no problems. After registering a bite, have passed through customs and were in the waiting room, where there are not enough of seats and some people had to stand. So on the one hand better check in quickly - the benefits: fewer people and more time to correct the situation in case of problems, but on the other - to wait in the waiting room is not a very pleasant experience. Then buses took us to the plane where all peoples ran to take place, because the tickets do not show place numbers, even for an additional fee you can book tickets with priority choosing of the place. Inside, there is enough empty seats, we were flying by Airbus 320 (~ 175 seats).

Less than 2 hours (~ 9:00) with a fair wind we landed in Antalya. Tickets were ordered in advance so the round trip cost about 900 UAH (~ $ 110). Fairly quickly passed customs, visas pasted (for the Ukrainian citizens $ 30, or 20 euros) and 15 minutes waiting for luggage.

Hotel - Dantel Pansion in the historical center of Antalya - Kaleici (15 euro for a person in double or twin room), we booked it in advance, by the recommendation of friends. So they must meet us, and at the exit of the airport was a man with a sign, he put us in a taxi (20 euros). In the hotel we had breakfast for 4 Euros - a typical Turkish breakfast - cheese, olives, bread, sausages, scrambled eggs, jams, honey, coffee and tea. And then decide to explore Kaleici, but it is hardly to do without a map or GPS-navigator. The streets of the old town rather "twisted", and the first day without a map / navigator is quite difficult to navigate, you can even take long to find your hotel. I didn't learned how to find it without a GPS during our stay:).

In Kaleici there are several mosques, defense tower, clock tower and Hadrian's Gate (II century), as well as many shops, restaurants and hotels. First day in Antalya, we were harassing by vendors and waiters at every step of asking: "Where are you from?" And "Russian?", but in the next few days we have learned not to respond to them.

We were going by one of the streets, a man of 20 years proposed to visit a mosque, we were surprised that proposal, but not denied. We left our shoes at the entrance (in the mosque one can not be shod, there nobody will take it, at least everywhere so they say, and I think it's true). We go inside, looking designs, interior design, our "guide" tells of the appointment of certain parts of the mosque, the meaning of the labels, digital display shows the schedule of prayers, a clock and thermometer. When we were going out "guide" offers to treat us with tea, we first give up, but after his conviction that it is a manifestation of Turkish hospitality and we can not renounce. we went to his shop carpets), where we were offered a delicious tea, probably of rose petals, and at the same time the man started to advertise rugs, skillfully spinning them in a way that before they fall to the floor, they still "float" some time in the air. After explaining that we still go to Cappadocia, and if left with enough money can later buy something, thank for the tea and say goodbye.

We dined in one of the restaurants in Kaleici, where we do not really like the service and food, so it was decided the next day to find something better.

In the evening I tried to change the euro to lira and they took 6% commission, after that the first question in exchanges was "Do you have a commission?". And nowhere was it:).

10/04/2011

In the morning walked downtown (we called it the City), where, according to the guide "Lonely planet" should have been a lot of exchange offices and banks, as well as restaurant Guneyliler, which in this book have very positive review. It turned out that, contrary to the scheme in the guide it's hard to find it not just because the houses are practically without signs with street names and house numbers, are not much help from GPS, though, as it later turned out, that there was the point on the GPS map with the restaurant:), but I haven't seen it for some reason. In an hour, bypassing all the City, we have fond it.

Returning to the hotel we saw (the first time in 2 days!) a group of Russians, they in addition to the language were quite different from the other by their revealing clothes as for Muslim country. As it turned out later, it is common to many tourists from the former Soviet countries. And it looks pretty weird, though everywhere it is recommended to dress modestly, leaving to Turkey, and not because of the fact that it will cause inconvenience to tourists, but just out of respect for the culture of the country where they are resting.

Leader of our group ordered Tickets to the Goreme over the Internet back in the Ukraine, but in these days of predicted rain and low temperatures. Therefore it was decided to change them at another date. We asked Yaman about this, he is the owner of the Dantel Pansion, he called to the company, where we took the tickets and said that they will change. After that we went with him in the City, which was good for us: a company representative did not understand a single word in English. We were given new tickets, for which we paid (Antalya-Goreme 40 TL), and promised to return the money for the previous on a card (on which they bought) for a week. We worried if they will return, but as it turned out, these worries were unfounded, since returning from Cappadocia, we learned that the money already credited to the card.

This day it was decided to visit the waterfalls: Upper and Lower Duden (Duden Selalesi, "Selalesi" - waterfall). Near 13:00 from the bus station Dogu Garaji, which is now under repair, ie. instead it there is only a big hole, but rather with its western part, we boarded a bus to the Upper Duden.

Something about transport: taxis are everywhere in Antalya, like the buttons on the poles to call them, a tram (two lines), buses (1.75 TL) and "dolmush-es" (minibuses, 1.75 TL), which are differ except in size. Buses / minibuses have a GPS for the passengers, and sometimes they even work, in fact, if you do not have a GPS it's a very useful thing. To find a specific bus, it's better to ask the drivers, although in English they do not understand: just say "Duden Selalesi?", if the answer is "Duden Selalesi.", It means that he goes :). You can even ask the shop assistants near Dogu Garaji, or your bus stop, they better understand English, sometimes they start to talk with you because they are interested in customers. Another note: usually young people better understand English.

In our bus was a girl who know English, and we ask her to explain the driver to tell us where it will be a waterfall. Although the Turks themselves are pretty kind for tourists and if they hear where you are going they gladly help you. The waterfall was very beautiful, there were only a few people, so we are fully able to enjoy what we saw. Cost 2.5 TL.

Next we went to the Lower Duden, which is located on the coast and is also very picturesque.

18.00 - dinner at Guneyliler. It's usual cafe, but everywhere is clean, plenty of space and pita bread cooked near you. The first day we liked everything: service, large portions of tasty, "bonuses" from the institution. As we were explained, "bonuses": adjika in a salad sheets, pita bread, butter, salad with tomatoes and cucumbers and tea - are free, although in the next few days took from us something greater than the amount we must pay for approximately 5-10%. This has worsened our impression, but we like this cafe: very tasty kebabs, friendly staff and comfortable facilities doing their job:). Comparing prices and quality with a cafe in which we went the first day, and fast food on the corner where the tram turns from the street of Atat?rk in the clock tower, the best was Guneyliler.

11/05/2011

10.00 near Dogu Garaji (on the east side) sat on the minibus to Aksu, near which lie the ruins of the ancient Greek city of Perge II century BC. if you go to Perge you must ask just about Aksu, since the question of Perge nobody really could not answer. In Aksu we bought water, then pass the road through the bridge and go north a little more than a kilometer. The first we saw were the ruins of the theater, which was under restoration, and the stadium where turtles live. The entrance costs 15 TL. Affects the well-preserved agora, baths, and the street with columns, which ends by a fountain. Also, there is city plumbing, which is likely impossible to climb (the entrance looks like a gray metal fence around the pit), but I tried and it turned out that the bats living there :). On a hill outside the city, we have found remains of the foundations and the basilica, well stored inside, where someone made barn for the goats. Also, there is good view of Perge and the outskirts, in particular mountain peaks covered with snow.

16.00 - back to the highway, near the bus stop with timetables of minibuses to Antalya, sit in a cafe and order ayran - Turkish fermented milk drink that quenches thirst well, so tasty ayran we have not seen anywhere else.

20.00 - supper in Guneyliler.

12/05/2011

9.30 - checked out from the hotel, but asked to leave things because we had tickets for the evening to Goreme.

10.00 - from Dogu Garaji bus station went to the waterfall of Kurshunlu (Kursunlu in Turkish), through the upper Duden as it turned out. Kurshunlu - a system of waterfalls, and along the park with a picnic area. Costs as far as I remember - 15 pounds. We were backing through the bus station in Aksu 15.00. Ie. one can visit the Upper Duden, Kurshunlu and Perge in one day.

16.00 - lunch in Guneyliler. After dinner, besides the usual wet wipes, we were offered another attraction: to wash hands from a bottle :).

17.00 - by tram went to the Antalya Archaeological Museum, price 15 TL. But we did not get there, it works only for 17.30. We went to the pebble beach near the tram station and the museum.

19.00 - took things out of the hotel. Went to the office of Metro to wait for "service" - a free minibus to the bus station.

20.00 - went to Antalya. At the entrance to the bus station for some reason, all the people were checked by metal detector. The bus was fairly comfortable - everyone has his own TV with headphones and a slot for memory cards, pretty comfortable chairs. Offer water, tea, coffee, cake and bananas. We stoped at 1:00 and 5:00, near the bus stations, shops. The driver and the staff didn't spoke English.

13/05/2011

In Nevshehir (Nevsehir in Turkish) at the bus station the bus stopped and the man asked in English, is there a 4 people who travel to Goreme, we are told that it is we, and he said that we must leave the bus and we will be transplanted to another bus. At this moment, the staff of our bus"disappeared" somewhere, as it turned out later - they were planting turkish people from our bus to minibus to Goreme, but have "forgotten" us. Suspecting nothing, we went out. We were invited to the office of a local travel agency and the man started to sell tours of Cappadocia and places in Goreme hotels, saying that his friend will tell us about the bus to Goreme, which will arrive in half an hour. Initially we were interested in the Green Tour (Derinkuyu, Ihlara valley and others), which costs 70 TL per person, then the price gradually dropped to 50:), but then the man attempt to take a deposit. Since there was no competition, and we didn't know the prices, so we didn't hurry to pay. A salesman of tours turned his attention to newly arrived Brazilian girls. Then we started thinking about how to get to Goreme. I have found the office of Metro in bus station, then showed the tickets and asked whether it is possible for them to get to Goreme, a man who was sitting behind the counter did not answer and chastely hid his eyes, then he talked something with a "friend" of tours seller, which said that the bus will arrive quickly. We started chatting with Brazilian girls, they said they also travel to Goreme, we had the idea to take them with us, but tours seller withdrew them at the very moment when his friend told us that the bus had already arrived. The bus was not Metro, but they have taken us, after a "friend" talked with the staff. At 8:30 we were in Goreme.

Conclusions: we bought the tour in another company for 60 TL, by that we have a little offended owner of the hotel where we stayed, which offered us a tour for 70 TL :) - it is the standard price, and had to pay an advance, but at least we have known the prices, and knew where to go in case if anything happens. Although the price we were offered in Nevsehir normal aggressive marketing techniques is confusing, and the fact that we were so brazenly detained for an hour. Therefore, if you will go in this tour, keep in mind these nuances, at least you will economize your time and nerves. Oral treatment at Metro in Goreme did nothing, even more, when we bought the tickets "Goreme - Antalya" again, we were told that the bus is direct (without transfers) but to Nevsehir we were transported by minibus, and there we sat on a bus to Altalya.

8.30 - in Goreme bus station in the town center there is plenty of private tour operators, with inscriptions "Free Information", the idea is simple - to entice the customer and sell the tour:). There are also Official Office (something like a municipal reference), where you can learn about hotels and get a free map of Goreme and the suburbs, though, as it turned out, this is also the organization of the "union" of hotels owners and objective is the same. Later we were given a lovely maps in the travel agency near the turning to the Goreme Open Air Museum, we just walked past it, a woman came and offered us a map, as advertising.

We stayed at the Melek Cave Hotel (double and twin rooms, 60 TL (Turkish lyra (lira), or 30 per person), although our numbers were not a cave, but for a breakfast on the first day and at times went on WiFi in the room where the owners live, which in fact is a man-made cavern in the sandstone.

11.00 - went to see the Red and Rose Valley. We got to the village of Cavushin (Cavusin in Turkish), here is the impressive city carved out in rock mass, on top of which you can see "houses of the fairies." We had lunch at outdoor cafe on the left of the road, if you walk from Goreme past the graveyard, not reaching to the rock city. I liked very much: we were told how to do airan (ayran), it is made from sour milk, salt and water. Ragout of lamb and vegetables served on a large metal plate, and we sat on the carpet under a canopy in the lotus position, came out very cool :). Go back to Goreme by bus.

14/05/2011

10.00 - buy tickets to Antalya and went in the direction of Pigeon Valley, already in the valley with a pretty rough terrain seen women of 70-80 years with trekking sticks, they confident, though slowly, accompanied by an instructor went up the hill!

12.00 - visited the Uchhisar (Uchisar in Turkish) Castle, which is a pretty high rock in the middle of the city, with wonderful views, it can be seen even from the road that leads to the Rose Valley past the Open Air Museum in Goreme. Costs 5 TL. Next we went to the Love Valley, and from there to Goreme. 16.00 - dined at the restaurant where among other spices waiter brought us pomegranate oil, which is tasting more like a concentrated pomegranate juice and delicious by itself:).

18.00 - decided to find exchangers, but it turned out that one can only change money in one bank, near the bus station, which was already closed. We climbed the hill with wonderful views of Goreme and the outskirts, they were especially beautiful when the sun was setting.

20.00 - tried Cappadocia wine.

15/05/2011

9.30 - started Green Tour, to my surprise almost all the seats in the minibus were taken. At first near Goreme we were shown Pigeon Valley and tour guide in English told us about the history of this region and the origin of these strange forms of relief. Then we went to Derinkuyu, where is one of the largest underground cities in Turkey, about 10 floors in depth. Dimensions and engineering solutions, as at that time, simply amazing, and this despite the fact that tourists can see only a small part of the former city. Then we visited the Ihlara Valley (Iglara Valley) - the canyon which do not look like other we've seen before in Cappadocia. Lunch is included in the price, very hearty and delicious as the second dish, you can choose chicken, trout and garnish with something else. We ordered a trout and were satisfied:). Next we were taken to the cave monastery. Contrary to what I saw in other churches, which survived much better, and the fate of this monastery: it was a long time caravanserai - something like a motel (hence the holes for barbecues in the floor), it was surprising: one of the churches looked just fine - with colonnades, balconies, carving. The last point was the onyx factory, where I won onyx egg by the correct answering the question :).

18.00 - dinner, we tried the famous Kapadokieli food - stews in clay pots, which waiter break up in your table, I liked it. We did not attend The Open Air Museum for lack of time - a reason to return:). We took things out of the hotel, Hossein - the owner of Melek Hotel accompanied us on the street, we said goodbye.

21.00 - left Goreme. Noticed an interesting feature - for some reason people pay for a toilet at the exit.

16/05/2011

7.00 - Antalya.

13.00 - "tour" to the supermarket. The first time went to the pastries cafe (on the road from Kaleici to Dogu Garaji). Impression: no taste only sugar :), and I don't know how to pay: one pay immediately, while others, when we were going out. In the evening strolling the promenade in the direction of the tram.

In the center of the area between the clock tower and the street of Ataturk a man like a punk looked about 35-40 came to us, and began to ask: "Russian?" and "Have you a minute?", And after we ignored him, he asked directly: " Smoke cannabis?", and come in amazement when we said "No".

We asked Yaman to order a car on the morning and he agreed.

05/17/2011

9.00 - after breakfast near the entrance to the hotel we was Renault Clio Symbol. It's hard to go out of Kaleici. We had 2 GPS and the boy who drove the car had thought how to go away for several days before. First problem - we did not understand how to turn rear gear. So we returned and asked.

We took the car took to see the ski resort Saklikent, which is located approximately 50 kilometers from Antalya at a height of 2000 meters above sea level. The road to it was very beautiful, interesting and in very good condition. Ski lift is located near the eponymous village, there was almost no snow, so nothing worked. At the top of the hill we saw the observatory. Nearby there are places where marble is mined. It was pretty cool and the wind was blowing.

Note: on my GPS there was still some other Saklikent, so one willing to go there should specify exactly the location of this resort, the same applies to Termesos and other geographical names, which is often referred to hotels, restaurants, etc.

Then we went to Termessos it's well preserved ancient city in the mountains. Price of ticket is 5 TL. After a few miles by serpentine, we finally got to the parking near the city, so Termessos is hardly to reach by public transport. Of the features: a beautiful location with wonderful views, well-preserved amphitheater, a mausoleum, as well as a necropolis - slope with a huge stone sarcophaguses in a human height.

The cost of a car rent - 70 TL, 15 litres of gasoline - 63 TL, and if one take a car without Yaman he must leave $ 500 as a deposit.

18.00 - dinner on the waterfront over the cliff, expensive but tasty.

05/18/2011

We went by bus to Lara Beach - Public sandy beach, very clean, free dressing rooms, showers (outdoor), toilets, picnic areas. Since it was the off-season - no one was swimming, and there were only a few tourists who are just looking at the sea. We decided to swim, the water was quite warm when swimming. We regretted that did not go swimming before.

Went back to the hotel and went for gifts.

An interesting thing happened when I tried to purchase a purse - the seller stubbornly wanted 40 TL, after a five-minute bidding he wanted 38, but I wanted 35. Not agreeing, we left, some men near the shop told us that seller would give cheaper, but we were not paying attention, and we did not pass 30 meters, as the seller went out and shouted that I can buy it for 35:). Later I've read about this method of trading in the above mentioned guide "Lonely planet", in fact, it turns out that it is an indispensable thing.

In the evening went by tram to the pebbly public beach Konyalti (Konyaalti). We stayed there until sunset.

05/19/2011

Taxi to the airport. At the airport, packing luggage costs some money and they are trying to cheat on the difference in exchange rates, so be careful. Kiev. In Zhulyany at customs nobody checked us. Immediately offered a taxi to the train station for 100 hryvnia (vs 30-40, if you call on the phone) :).

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